Formulate a Sol body cream

Emulsan - INCI: Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Sol fragrance oil - A dupe fragrance oil inspired by Sol De Janeiro’s Bum Bum Cream scent.

Check your usual suppliers for the remaining ingredients. Propanediol, sclerotion gum, stearic acid, glyceryl stearate, cupuacu butter, coconut oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, grapeseed oil, and Geogard ECT are all widely available from cosmetic ingredient suppliers. Green tea glycerite and seabuckthorn CO2 extract may require a more specialist supplier.

Method

1. Prepare Phase A.

2. Blend Phase B and add it to Phase A. Heat Phases A/B to 75°C.

3. Prepare Phase C and heat to 75°C.

4. At 75°C, add Phase C to A/B and homogenise until smooth and glossy.

5. Cool to 40-45°C and add Phase D.

6. Check and adjust pH to be 5.0-6.0.

Evaluate after 24 hours.

Working with Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate - This emulsifier isn’t as widely used in beginner formulas as Olivem 1000 or Montanov 68, but it’s incredibly versatile. Learning how it behaves, how it responds to different lipid levels, and what textures it can produce gives you another tool in your emulsifier toolkit.

Balancing a lipid phase for spreadability - Not all oil phases are created equal. This formula deliberately uses a combination of caprylic/capric triglyceride, grapeseed oil, cupuacu butter, and coconut oil at specific ratios. The result is a cream that spreads easily and absorbs without leaving a greasy film. Understanding how to select and combine lipids for a target skin feel is one of the most useful skills in emulsion work.

Understanding co-emulsifier systems - Stearic acid and glyceryl stearate aren’t just there to fill space. They work alongside the primary emulsifier to strengthen the emulsion structure and improve the overall stability. Recognising what each emulsifier contributes is what separates a formula that holds together from one that separates on day three.

Managing the cool-down phase - The cool-down additions here include heat-sensitive botanicals, an antioxidant, fragrance, and a preservative. Getting into the habit of grouping temperature-sensitive ingredients into a separate phase and knowing when to add them is an essential practice for any emulsion-based formula.

Each of these decisions shapes the final product. The more formulas you work through, the more instinctive these choices become.

The lipid phase is where this formula really invites experimentation. The oil phase is around 15%, which is moderate for a body cream, and you can adjust the individual oils without altering the overall balance.

Cupuacu butter → mango butter or murumuru butter: Both are soft, spreadable butters that melt at skin temperature. Mango butter gives a slightly lighter feel, whilst murumuru is a bit more conditioning. Keep the percentage at 2%.

Grapeseed oil → hemp seed oil or rosehip oil: Hemp seed oil is similarly lightweight and absorbs quickly. Rosehip oil adds a slight orange tint and brings its own skin-conditioning properties, but it’s more expensive, so you may want to use it at a lower percentage and increase the caprylic/capric triglyceride to compensate. Hemp and rosehip are also more prone to oxidation; it's just something to consider.

Coconut oil → babassu oil: Babassu has a very similar melting profile to coconut oil but feels lighter on the skin. It’s a straightforward swap at the same percentage.

Green tea extract glycerite → chamomile extract glycerite or calendula extract glycerite: Any water-soluble botanical extract will work here. Choose based on the skin benefit you want to highlight. The percentage stays the same.

If you’re unsure which lipid combination will give you the feel you’re after, or if you want to check whether a particular swap will affect your emulsion stability, our Smart AI Lab Assistants can help you think that through.

SAFETY NOTE

This formula is designed for personal use as a leave-on body cream. It contains a preservative system (Geogard ECT) and should be stored in a clean, airtight container away from direct sunlight.

If you’re using the Sol dupe fragrance oil, be aware that fragrance oils can contain allergens. Check your supplier's documentation and make sure you have the IFRA certificate for the specific oil you’re using. If you’re swapping to essential oils, check the IFRA guidelines for maximum safe usage levels in leave-on products, as these limits are lower than for rinse-off formulations.

Always perform a patch test before using a new formulation on your skin. Apply a small amount to the inside of your wrist, leave for 24 hours, and check for any irritation.

When sourcing your ingredients, make sure you purchase from reputable suppliers that provide proper documentation, including Certificates of Analysis (COAs) and Safety Data Sheets (SDS).

This blog post is for educational purposes only and is not intended to replace cosmetic safety assessments required for commercial sales. If you plan to sell products, a formal safety assessment by a qualified assessor is a legal requirement in the UK and EU.

I think in this formula, the ingredient choices do most of the talking. The lipid blend, the emulsifier, and the way the cream comes together at homogenisation. Once you've made it and felt its texture, you'll have a much better sense of how Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate behaves and what it can deliver in future formulations.

How about the scent? What fragrance would you pair with this cream if you were making your own version? I’d love to hear what scent profiles you’d go for. Join the SKOOL Community and let me know.